What color is the brake fluid? Have you ever seen one that has clear ( or at best opaque/translucent) brake fluid? I haven't.it's always murky brown.and if the fluid is brown, then there is sludge built up at "catch points" throughout the system.like the bottom of the MC, prop valve, calipers and wheel cylinders. Take a peek in the MC of a junkyard car sometime. Since 99.99% of people do not flush out their DOT3 brake systems once every 5 years, I figured I would run into this same situation using old parts-and because everything else in my system is new, I was not willing to chance using life-limited used parts. When I took my old valve apart to attempt to rebuild it ( which was it's ultimate demise because once taken apart it requires special tools to reassemble, which nobody has), it was loaded with sludge.and I wondered, if without being taken apart, how could that be cleaned out without damaging the 39 year old seals? I didn't feel comfortable that it could.the seals didn't look that great. I decided against "used" for a couple of reasons. The 1967-70 design had the prop valve mounted in that same line as well, but it was mounted to the frame, and I don't want to cut the existing lines. The reason I'm using the adjustable proportioning valve is I can easily mount it directly between the metering block and my existing rear brake line. This isn't extreme at all, all I'm actually doing is reverting back to the earlier brake system design by separating the components. I will be using the 1967-1970 metering block which is used to equalize front and rear pressures, provides the split for the front brakes, isolates the front from the rear lines, and provides a warning light in case of line failure. I decided to incorporate pre-combination valve technology with new technology and make my own system. and instead of chancing getting yet a 3rd defective valve and having to go through the fiasco of the replacement and bleeding of the entire system I decided to go a different route. Since I could not find a company that rebuilt the original combo valves that came on our cars, and I really didn't want to convert the system to manual brakes. My guess is that these are being made offshore and sold by the different vendors for widely varying prices. I have read where people have had issues with the ones from Inline Tube and other vendors as well. More research into this problem, and I found this is a VERY common problem with these new brass valves. Now mind you, the car has only seen driveway use, in and out of the garage Same problem leaking fluid through the pin at the end of the metering valve. Initially, everything looked good and I had no leaks.for about 10 weeks that is, and then it started all over again. In February I ordered another one of these PV2 Disc/Drum brass combination (prop) valves and installed it.
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